KAMIKOCHI_上高地

It all started when I came across a photo of Kamikochi on Instagram. Towering mountains like the Alps and a river in stunning shades of light blue—it looked just like Switzerland! I was amazed to discover such a beautiful place existed in Japan, and I knew I had to see it with my own eyes.

When I tried to book a hotel in April, the only available date was July 11. That’s when I started seriously researching Kamikochi.

I found out it’s not only a popular scenic spot but also the gateway to the Hotaka mountain range, attracting many climbers. It’s also known for its beautiful hiking trails. So I decided—if I’m going all the way there, I want to enjoy the great outdoors to the fullest. And that’s how my hiking adventure began.

To catch the early morning bus to Kamikochi, I stayed near Matsumoto Station the night before.
(*More about how to get to Matsumoto and hotel options in another post.)

I had reserved a seat on the 5:30 AM Alpico bus departing from Matsumoto Bus Terminal.
But… I overslept just a bit! I hurriedly packed up, checked out of my hotel, and rushed out.

I wanted to stop by a convenience store to grab some water and snacks, but I didn’t have time.
By the time I arrived at the terminal, many people were already lining up. The bus was a comfortable sightseeing coach with reserved seats, and large luggage was stored in the compartment below.

The driver spoke English, and there were announcements in English as well.
The bus was nearly full, and we left right on schedule.

After leaving Matsumoto, the bus passed briefly through the city, then quickly entered the winding mountain roads. There were lots of curves and tunnels, and the ride was bumpier than I expected.

As we passed by beautiful mountain streams and deep valleys, I could feel my excitement growing—I’m almost there!

At 7:00 AM, we arrived at Kamikochi Bus Terminal.
It was a perfect morning—not a single cloud in the sky. I strapped on my backpack and started walking toward Kappa Bridge, the symbolic heart of Kamikochi.
Almost everyone was heading in the same direction, so it was easy to follow the flow.

There were clean, modern toilets at the bus terminal (very welcome after the ride!).

Just a short walk from the bus terminal, I caught my first glimpse of the river—the Azusa River, which
The water was stunningly blue and crystal clear, and it looked so cold and pure that I could almost feel it just by looking.

The morning temperature was below 20°C, and the crisp mountain air felt incredibly refreshing.

After about five minutes of walking, I arrived at Kappa Bridge. It was exactly like the famous photos of Kamikochi: the Hotaka mountain range, the Azusa River, and the iconic Kappa Bridge—all right in front of me.

I was deeply moved by the view. 🥹
I couldn’t stop taking photos—click, click, click!

Since it was still early, there weren’t many people around, so I could enjoy the stunning scenery in peace.

I dropped off my backpack at my hotel for the night, Hotel Shirakabaso, located just beside the bridge.
From here, my hiking adventure begins!

(*I’ll introduce the hotel in a separate post.)

After enjoying the stunning view from Kappa Bridge, I sat down at one of the many tables and benches nearby to plan my day.

It was Friday, and I figured tomorrow (Saturday) would be more crowded.
“Should I go to Taisho Pond while it’s still relatively quiet today?”
Or… “Should I go for the long hike I’d been dreaming about — past Myojin to Tokusawa?”

After thinking it over, I decided to go with what I wanted to do most: Hike all the way to Tokusawa!

Thankfully, I had bought some bread the night before, so I had a quick breakfast at the bench before setting off. (I couldn’t stop at a convenience store this morning, so that bread really saved me!)

I started walking along the left bank of the Azusa River, heading toward Myojin.

Almost immediately, I came across the entrance to Konashidaira Campground — and there it was: a sign warning of bear sightings. There were only a few people on the trail, and the path wasn’t very clearly marked. I couldn’t help but feel a little nervous as I started my hike.

The trail to Myojin was well-maintained and mostly flat, with very little elevation change, which made it an easy and comfortable hike.

I had prepared for this day—new trekking shoes, and a few practice hikes—so I felt totally ready.
Everything felt just right.

As I walked through the forest, surrounded by the sounds of the flowing river, I found joy in every little thing along the way—bamboo grass fields, soft moss-covered ground, and tiny, delicate flowers.

Each step felt fresh and new. Just walking was enough to make me happy.

From time to time, I passed hikers carrying huge backpacks, and I couldn’t help but wonder—maybe they’re coming back from Mt. Hotaka or the Karasawa Cirque?

Everyone I passed greeted me with a friendly “Konnichiwa!”, so I did the same—to every single person, including visitors from abroad.

It’s not something I usually do in everyday life, but here on the trail, it felt completely natural. And I realized—a simple greeting can really lift your spirits.

The walk from Kappa Bridge to Myojin took me about an hour and a half, as I stopped frequently to take photos and videos along the way.

When I arrived in Myojin, my first destination was Myojin Pond and the Okumiya (inner shrine) of Hotaka Shrine. I turned left at the Myojinkan lodge, crossed the Myojin Bridge over the Azusa River, and was greeted by a stunning view—Myojin Peak towering right in front of me.

After crossing the bridge, I turned left to find the entrance to Myojin Pond. The entrance fee was 500 yen, and because it was still early in the morning, I had the entire place all to myself.

There’s a small shrine on a wooden pier stretching over the water, where people come to pray.
The surface of the pond was perfectly still and clear—it felt mysterious and deeply spiritual.

I had been hoping to try the famous char fish set meal at Kamonjigoya, but it was too early in the morning, and the place wasn’t open yet.

After a short break on a bench, I got ready to head out again—next stop, Tokusawa!

Admission	500 yen
Period	April 17 – November 15
Visiting Hours	6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Access	About a 1-hour walk from Kappa Bridge in Kamikochi

From Myojin, the trail became more of a true trekking course. There were some gentle ups and downs, and more and more rocky sections along the way.

There were hardly any other hikers, and the only sounds were the chirping of birds and the rustling of trees in the wind. The stillness felt peaceful, almost meditative.

This area is known for possible bear sightings, so I made sure to ring the bear bells installed along the trail as I walked. And of course, I had my own bear bell attached to my backpack, too!

The trail wound between riverside paths and deep forests, with ever-changing scenery.

At one point, I saw soft, fluffy white tufts floating through the air—
they looked just like the spores from Nausicaä, dancing like snowflakes in the sunlight.
It was such a beautiful and otherworldly moment.

After about an hour of walking, I finally saw it—Tokusawa Lodge coming into view ahead.

When I arrived in Tokusawa, the first thing I saw was the charming Tokusawa Lodge.
Families were enjoying drinks on the terrace, and I walked past them, heading further in.

(By the way, I’ve already decided—next year, I want to stay in Tokusawa and enjoy hiking at a slower pace!)

Soon, the trail opened up into a wide, grassy field. To the right was a spacious campground shaded by a giant Japanese elm (harunire), with scattered tents and groups enjoying picnics in the sunshine.
The peaceful atmosphere was so soothing.

My goal for today? A handmade pizza from the popular Tokusawaen! 🍕

There were lots of hikers here, probably fueling up before heading deeper into the mountains.

Meals are ordered via a ticket machine, and you’re called by number.
Drinks are ordered at the counter, and they accept cash or PayPay only.

I ordered the four-cheese pizza with acacia honey and an iced café au lait (with ice!).

Luckily, I grabbed a seat at the edge of the terrace.

The pizza had a chewy yet crispy crust, topped with melty cheese and a generous spoonful of golden honey—it looked beautiful and tasted even better.
The iced café au lait was refreshing, especially with the ice on a warm day.

As I listened to the conversations of hikers preparing for serious climbs, I slowly enjoyed my pizza,
and thought to myself— “Maybe someday, I’ll try climbing a mountain too.”

After a relaxing lunch at Tokusawaen, I started my walk back to Kappa Bridge.

I retraced my steps to Myojin, then returned via the right bank of the Azusa River.
This side of the trail features more wooden boardwalks, which made it easier and more stable to walk on.

On the way, I spotted a pair of wild monkeys (a parent and baby!),
stopped by the peaceful Dakesawa Marsh,
and watched clear streams with small fish swimming in them—
so many quiet discoveries along the way.

Taking it slow and stopping to take photos, it took me about two hours to get back to Kappa Bridge.

By then, the area was much more crowded than in the morning, filled with tourists enjoying the scenery.
It was interesting to see how different the vibe was depending on the time of day.

Since I still had time before checking into my hotel,
I treated myself to an apple soft-serve ice cream 🍎 from a nearby shop.

It turned out to be surprisingly delicious—sweet, refreshing, and the perfect way to end my mountain walk.

After checking into Hotel Shirakabaso, I was looking forward to one of the highlights of my trip—
a guided night tour in the peaceful darkness of Kamikochi.

After a refreshing shower, I had an early dinner at 5:30 PM (yes, a bit early!) to be ready for the tour.
We gathered in the hotel lobby and set off with a group of about 15 participants.
Note: You don’t have to stay at the hotel to join this tour!

Our guide, Mr. Nishimura, was full of knowledge and clearly loves Kamikochi deeply.
You could feel his passion in every word as he explained the natural surroundings and the night sky.

We first went down to the Azusa River, where we watched the International Space Station (ISS) pass overhead.
Since it was summer, the sky was still a bit light at the 7:30 PM start, but he had planned everything perfectly to make the most of that time.

Next, we followed a dark trail down to a gravel riverbank, walking with our flashlights in hand.
Along the way, he showed us how lighting up flowers and grasses could make for magical photos.

After about 20 minutes of walking, we reached the riverbank.
There, he explained the Summer Triangle and the Milky Way.
Although some clouds blocked the view, we were still able to see a stunning starry sky—and it was absolutely worth it.

This is something I would never have tried alone.
Thanks to the guide, I felt completely safe and had a truly unforgettable experience under the stars.

Days	Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays & national holidays only
Season	April 26 – November 14
Start time	7:30 PM
Fee	1,500 yen
Eligibility	Open to all, not limited to hotel guests

After a relaxing soak in the hotel’s public bath,
I was pretty tired from the day’s hike and fell asleep by 10 PM.

The next morning, I had signed up for a guided early morning tour.
To my delight, the guide was again Mr. Nishimura,
the same knowledgeable and kind guide from the night tour.

In the early hours, the temperature was probably below 20°C, and it felt chilly.
A jacket is definitely a must at this time of day!

The tour took us around the nearby campground and riverside,
while Mr. Nishimura explained the names of the surrounding mountains,
pointed out unique flowers and plants, and shared interesting facts about Kamikochi’s nature.

He also kindly offered to take plenty of photos of the participants, which was a lovely touch.

Even though I joined the tour on my own,
I felt completely comfortable and had a wonderful time.
Walking through the cool, clear morning air was an unforgettable experience.

After the early morning tour, I returned to the hotel for a quick shower and enjoyed a buffet-style breakfast.
After checking out, the hotel kindly stored my luggage until my bus departure, so I could explore freely.

When I stepped outside around 9:00 AM, the area around Kappa Bridge was already packed with tourists.
Weekends in Kamikochi definitely mean bigger crowds.

Today’s plan was a loop walk to Taisho Pond:
Kappa Bridge → Weston Monument → Taisho Pond → Tashiro Pond → back to Kappa Bridge.
I started out along the right bank of the Azusa River.

A short detour off the path led me to the Walter Weston Memorial Stone.
Walter Weston was a British missionary and mountaineer who introduced Kamikochi to the world.
Thinking that “if it weren’t for him, Kamikochi might not be as well-known as it is today” made me feel a deep sense of gratitude.

From there, I passed several large tour groups and eventually reached Taisho Pond.
Even with the crowds, the view of Mt. Yake reflected in the pond was absolutely stunning.

On the way back, I stopped at Tashiro Pond—a place with a more tranquil, mystical atmosphere.
The water stretched far into the distance, blending beautifully with the surrounding greenery.
It was so clear that I could see all the way to the bottom, where fish swam gracefully.
Surprisingly, it wasn’t crowded here, and I could really enjoy the peaceful scenery.

Finally, I followed the left bank back to Kappa Bridge, ending my walk for the day.

After returning to Kappa Bridge, I still had two and a half hours before my 2:40 PM bus.
I wondered what to do.

I could have gone for lunch at a restaurant or enjoyed coffee and sweets at a café,
but I decided instead to spend the time in the forest, breathing in the fresh mountain air.

I walked along the left bank from Kappa Bridge to Konashidaira Campground.
There, I found a wooden table and bench in the shade.
A pleasant breeze drifted through, and in the distance I could see hikers heading toward the mountains—a small but reassuring sight.

With a cup of coffee from the campsite shop in hand, I simply sat and did nothing.
I thought, “It would have been nice to bring a book,”
and, “Maybe next year, I’ll try a little mountain climbing.”
I jotted down my thoughts in my notebook, repeating the cycle until it was suddenly time for the bus.

Moments like this—doing nothing at all—are rare in everyday life.
It cleared my mind completely and left me feeling refreshed.

Over these two days in Kamikochi, I was able to spend plenty of time surrounded by nature, and I was once again moved by the thought that “Japan truly has such incredible scenery.”

The peaceful beauty of Myojin Pond and Tashiro Pond, the handmade pizza at Tokusawa, and the starry sky during the night tour were especially unforgettable.
I also loved the warm custom of greeting fellow hikers along the trail—each cheerful “Konnichiwa!” made me feel more energized and connected to the mountains.

On weekdays, Kamikochi is relatively quiet, but on weekends the area around Kappa Bridge becomes very crowded.
A bear bell, comfortable walking shoes, and warm clothing for the cool mornings and evenings are essential.
And one more thing—always double-check the date of your bus reservation!

Next time, I’d love to visit during the autumn foliage season and try a bit of mountain climbing.
I’m sure I’ll be able to see a completely different side of Kamikochi’s beauty.